El Glorioso Pisco Peruano
¡Oh, nuestros piscos!
¡Oh, nuestras uvas de todos los colores y de todos los gustos y todos los tamaños!
Los toneles enormes.
Las bodegas pletóricas.
Los pámpanos...honestos...castos...taperos...
Los sarmientos robustos como boas, en los campos iqueños, rendidos bajo el peso de apretados racimos tamañazos...
Adán Felipe Mejía "El Corregidor"
Al llegar a estas tierras los españoles se encontraron con cielos de un azul nunca visto, plantas y frutos de fenomenal tamaño, sabores y aromas embriagadores que fueron su sustento hasta que, una vez establecidos, trajeron sus propios alimentos:
La canela, clavo de olor, alhucema, pimienta, cominos, nuez moscada, jengibre, eneldo, cardamomo, y un sinfín de condimentos llenaron los ambientes de nuevas fragancias. Así mismo los cítricos, los olivos, el trigo y las vides dieron aquí mejores frutos que en Europa debido a la destreza en el manejo de la agricultura y al maravilloso sistema de regadío del pueblo inca.
Entre 1551 y 1553, Francisco de Carabantes trajo los primeros sarmientos de uva negra desde Las Canarias. Cuentan que debido al largo viaje, la mayor parte se estos se perdió y sólo quedaron unos cuantos que fueron sembrados en el pago de Tacaraca en Ica y en el Cuzco.
Las primeras parras plantadas en el Perú eran consideradas como tesoros y se cuidaban con guardias armados día y noche. Bernabé Cobo cuenta en sus crónicas que la primera parra que llevaron del Perú a Chile fue vendida en tres mil pesos y cada sarmiento en cien.
Alrededor de 1560 se empieza a elaborar vino en el Perú. Cuentan que en la encomienda de Nicolás de Ribera "El Viejo", en el pago de Tacaraca en Ica, se hacía el vino "aloque", de uva prieta traída por Carabantes. Así mismo, según Garcilaso, en Cuzco, Pedro Cazalla produjo el primer vino fabricado en estas tierras.
Cuenta Von Tchudi: "Llama la atención la facilidad con que la vida se da en estas tierras aparentemente áridas. Basta meter las estacas más o menos a medio pie de tierra, atarlas y abandonarlas a su suerte. Rápidamente echan raíces y dan hojas. Mientras toda la región tiene características de desierto, los viñedos lucen un bello vergel."
De este modo el Virreinato del Perú, que era el más importante de América, fue el primer lugar del Nuevo Mundo en cultivar vides de uvas hermosas, apoteósicas de aromas y sabores que llenaron de color y alegría la campiña iqueña que no tardó en producir vinos. De aquí salieron las cepas que se sembraron en Chile y Argentina.
Cuenta Guamán Poma: "El vino abunda como agua en todo el reino". Fue tanta la cosecha de vides y la producción de vino, que Felipe II prohibió que se hiciese y decretó un fuerte tributo a los vinos americanos para proteger a la industria española.
La variedad de uva traída de las Canarias adquirió en estas tierras benditas de Ica, Moquegua y Tacna, modificaciones sustanciales y nació la deliciosa uva quebranta. Así mismo vinieron otras cepas que originaron las variedades moscatel y mollar, uvas tintas. Albilla e Italia, uvas blancas que maduraron maravillosamente bajo el sol refulgente en una tierra fértil: la Pacha Mama, amada y venerada por los antiguos peruanos que lograron los mayores milagros agrícolas del mundo; regada por el "Unu" o agua sagrada que hace brotar sus frutos en un sistema de regadío sin igual en el universo. Describe fray Antonio de Calancha que en 1639 se elaboraba en el valle de Ica150,000 botijas de vino, de 70 litros cada una. Para cada litro de vino se utilizaba dos kilos de uvas, por lo que significaba una producción de 21 millones de kilos de uvas.
A raíz de la prohibición antedicha, se empieza a destilar el aguardiente de uva en el Perú, y éste resulta extraordinario debido al sabor y dulzura de las uvas.
La vendimia marca el inicio de la destilación con la recolección de racimos maduros que se convierten en mosto durante la pisa en el lagar. Luego se cuela para separar el orujo, entonces se inicia la fermentación "tumultuosa" por medio de microorganismos naturales llamados levadura alcohólica. Este proceso dura 15 días y emite un sonido llamado "sinfonía del vino". El mosto fermentado se lleva al alambique para el proceso de destilación. A las cuatro horas empieza a chorrear el pisco "calientito" llamado "chicharrón".
El pisco mas apreciado es el Puro hecho de uva quebranta; el Italia, es aromático y se hace con uva Italia. Otros son el Albilla; el Moscatel; el especial Mosto Verde, que se hace con el mosto a mitad de la fermentación, y el Acholado que resulta de la mezcla de éstos.
Von Tchudi opina "Las uvas son de excelente calidad, muy jugosas y dulces. De la mayor parte se destila aguardiente que, como se comprenderá, es exquisito. El aguardiente común se llama Pisco porque es embarcado en ese puerto". Y agrega Ángeles Caballero: "El valle de Pisco sigue siendo el más abundante en vinos. Dase allí uno que compite con nuestro jerez: el llamado aguardiente de Pisco, que es uno de los licores mas exquisitos que se beben en el mundo."
Pisco es el puerto de la zona de Ica que fue utilizado para los barcos veleros que, según Hans Horkheimer existieron en la zona de Ica en el Perú precolombino, cuyas evidencias las constituyen los remos orzas -131 ejemplares de gran dimensión, así como los timoneles, huaras o centerboards (orzas de deriva) que se encuentran en el Museo Etnográfico de Berlín y en los museos de Antropología y Arqueología de Lima, así como en el Museo Regional de Ica.
Se cuenta que el Inca Yupanqui, el más grande conquistador del Tahuantinsuyo, emprendía largos viajes por mar que duraban varios meses y debió utilizar el puerto de Pisco para embarcarse.
Los piscos son aves que habitan en la zona del puerto y los pobladores también habían adoptado ese nombre. Como en otros casos, los antiguos peruanos llevaban los nombres de comidas o animales útiles: como Guamán Poma (halcón-puma); Atahualpa (gallina); Tupac Amaru (culebra-serpiente); Ayarmacas (quinua- maca) y muchísimos más.
Los piscos que eran grandes ceramistas, como los demás integrantes de las etnias que habitaban esa región, fabricaban unas botijas donde maduraban la chicha, licor fino fabricado por las mamaconas para el consumo del inca y la nobleza. Estas vasijas eran de forma cónica, con una punta que se introducía en la arena para obtener una temperatura pareja. Estaban revestidas internamente con cera de abejas, y a los españoles les cayeron como anillo al dedo y las adoptaron para transportar vinos y, más tarde, el aguardiente de uva que fue llamado PISCO.
El incomparable Pisco peruano, es extraordinario por sus propiedades y sabor inigualable. Las uvas de donde proviene alcanzan en la zona de Ica y Moquegua un dulzor y aroma que no se da en otros lugares. Esta cualidad de la fruta produce un aguardiente único, cuya calidad se puede probar poniendo unas gotas en la palma de la mano, la que se frota y al eliminar el alcohol debe quedar la fragancia de las uvas. Así también al agitar la botella se forma el "cordón y rosa" -globitos y remolino. Además, del interior de la botella, se desliza en gotas densas "la glicerina" que certifica, para los conocedores, la autenticidad del Pisco.
Un buen pisco pasa por la garganta suavemente, sin agresividad y provoca un calor placentero en el interior. Si no se mezcla con otros productos no causa ningún estrago al organismo, es decir, no hay "resaca".
El Pisco Sour, es la bebida más practicada y consumida en el Perú. Nacida a comienzos del siglo pasado, en el Morris Bar, y luego el Hotel Maury; mezcla en perfecta aleación nuestro pisco incomparable, que tiene que ser el Puro, sin mucha fragancia, con el peruanísimo limón de Chulucanas, que a pesar de venir de Ceuta, adquiere en estas tierras un sabor y calidad especiales.
Todos los países del mundo tienen su típico licor.
¡El Perú tiene el Pisco!
Que nos embriaga y nos hace felices...
Que repone nuestras fuerzas...
Que aleja el pesimismo mientras
entra en nuestro corazón pujante el optimismo...
¡Hagamos más Pisco Sour!
¡Bebamos más Pisco Peruano!
Gloria Hinostroza 12/06/2007
151 comentarios:
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